Zero waste pattern cutting is a hidden gem.
You know when you have a project that you are anticipating so much that it mysteriously bumps the queue and you end up sewing it in, I wouldn’t say “record time” but… something like that?
Finding my zero waste pattern
Well that’s what happened to me when I took this book out of the library. Zero Waste Patterns by Birgitta Helmersson is a beautifully laid out book filled with patterns that are cut using a zero waste cutting method. There are different blocks for tops and bottoms, and then more projects based on these initial blocks. Most of these patterns have a fairly boxy fit since the entire width and length of the fabric is used in the garment. While a loose, boxy fit isn’t usually my style, I flipped through the book to see what it was about. I stopped flipping when I came to the sundress pattern. It’s based off the “singlet block” and it is so gorgeous and whimsical on the model as she is standing in a field with the wind blowing her dress.
Acquiring enough fabric
As soon as I could I went to the thrift store to find the length I needed to make it: only 101cm! The width of the fabric determines the length of the dress. Spoiler alert: 147cm (58 inches) is not wide enough for my liking. At that width, my dress would have been too short. I had already cut the bodice of the dress out of an army green cotton blend, so I decided I needed to get another cut of coordinating fabric for the skirt. I skipped down to my local fabric store and in the bargain aisle, I found 100% cotton gauze. It was black with machine embroidered flowers all over it. Perfect. Knowing I only needed one meter (since the skirt is gathered, I had lots of wiggle room in this measurement and didn’t need precisely 101cm).
Making minor pattern changes
After washing and drying the piece of the fabric for the black skirt, I held it up to my body. I decided to use the whole width of fabric for the skirt (if I had cut the bodice out of the same fabric, it would have been about 30 cm of this width. I decided to just incorporate that into the skirt length). The skirt front is half of this width, the back is the other half. So simple. I really enjoyed cutting out the fabric using this zero waste cutting method since you don’t actually have too many cuts to make as all the pieces fit together in a tetris-like way. And I was a BIG fan of Tetris as an adolescent. It was actually enjoyable to cut out, and that is saying a lot. Cutting is one of my LEAST fabric sewing tasks.
Since I had some extra green cotton from when I realized the skirt would be too short, I cut the bodice out again and stitched the two bodice layers together to make it thicker, more opaque. I might use the remaining green cotton to add inseam pockets to the skirt We’ll see.
Adjustments for next time
The straps are bias binding. I used premade black bias tape from the store. Birgitta warns that the straps may increase in length by 2-3cm. So I just cut them to the length detailed in the book. I know that with time they might grow. I’m curious about this, as the bust darts are a little too high for me. Before I make another version, I will continue to hang this dress by the straps and try to stretch them a little naturally. If they don’t stretch out as I am prepared for them to do, I will increase the length by 2cm for the next version. The neck line is very high and some might find it chokes a bit. This doesn’t bother me, but I know it would bother others.
If you don’t have 165cm in width of fabric for this one, I recommend either color-blocking or purchasing extra fabric. Measure the full length needed of the folded front bodice and add that to the length. Use the rest of the fabric to either line the bodice or add pockets. This action sort of takes away from the “zero waste” aspect, but it all depends on what you have on hand.
In real life
I’ve worn this dress out a couple of times already. I loved sitting on the picnic blanket and allowing the skirt to cover my criss-crossed legs like a blanket. I felt warm enough in the shade, cool enough in the sun. This is my first time wearing gauze and so far, so good 🙂
I was at a fabric swap, #SewistsPicnicYVR, a month ago and managed to nab the exact same check pattern and size as the model wears in the book. I’m looking forward to making that just after I finish what was actually up next in the queue: B’s Jedidiah Pants!
Happy Sewing!
